Beautiful and Brainy

Sun Protection part II

Tue, 25 Sep 2007 02:15:44 GMT

Here are some sun protection products that do their jobs well and aren't tested on animals. Remember, always wear at least SPF 15.
1) Anthelios SX: Made by La Roche-Posay, this European staple is now available in the US. Called the world's best sunscreen by many derms, it features Meroxyl, a strong UVA absorber. It runs about $29 for 3.4 oz, so I'd keep this to face only, or maybe the body if you're really sensitive to the sun. I've seen it for sale at CVS too.
2) Peter Thomas Roth Ultra-Lite Oil-Free Sunblock: Really a sunscreen, this is the best choice for oily or blemished skin. It features the UVA absorbing agent Parsol 1789, along with others to keep out UVB rays. It it light and easy to apply, looks great under makeup, and moisturizes with aloe and vitamins A and C. It's also available as a mist for easy body application.
3) Colorscience SPF 30 All Clear Brush: A sunblock, this works well for sensitive skin. It's mineral-based, and goes on by itself or over makeup. It won't clog pores and doesn't have any skin irritants. This works best on the face since it will come off quickly on other parts of the body. You also need to reapply often, but the built-in brush makes it great for a purse. Also available tinted or with sparkles.
4) DDF Daily Matte SPF 15: An oil-free moisturizer and sunblock, this is a great anti-aging product. It features retinol palmitate, an A vitamin that gently destroys dead skin, along with vitamins E and C and the antioxidant CoQ-10.i Perfect for oily skin that doesn't need a lot of heavy moisture, but could use nutrition.
5) Juice Beauty Sheer Moisture SPF 30: Another oil-free moisturizer and sunblock, this is from and all-organic and naturally based line. Titanium Dioxide protects while aloe moisturizes and apple and white grape juice nourish. Good if you need a little extra SPF protection for normal to oily skin or if you're into organics.
6) Kinerase Cream with SPF 30: Expensive at $135, but worth every penny if you have dry and sensitive skin. A sunblock and sunscreen (it has both chemical and physical agents), this moisturizer contains kinetin, a strong antioxidant derived from plants.
7) Murad Perfecting Day Cream, SPF 30: Also for dry/sensitive skin, this moisturizer and sunscreen is full of emolliants to hold in moisture, plus fatty acids and soy to help rebuild skin cells. This should be used with a gentle exfoliator like Peter Thomas Roth's Buffing Beads to insure maximum absorbtion.
8) True Blue Spa Calm, Cool, and Protected Cooling Sunscreen Mist: Currently out of stock on the Bath and Body Works website, I'm sure it's in stores. Full spectrum coverage in a light, continuous mist, great for the body. If you put this on your face, apply to your hands first than rub on.
9) Neutrogena Active Breathable Sunblock, SPF 45: What you see is what you get- a waterproof, oil-free sunblock that stands up to a day at the beach. You should still reapply, because even waterproof sunblock isn't foolproof, and protection wanes over time.
10) California Baby Water-Resistant, Hypo-Allergenic Sunscreen, SPF 30+: This product is labelled well- it doesn't claim an exact SPF or to be waterproof, both of which aren't possible. Babies and small kids have VERY sensitive skin, especially to the sun, so sunscreen is a must everytime you go outside for more than a few minutes. This is actually a sunblock, using titanium dioxide to block out UVA and UVB rays.

Protection, SPF Style

Sat, 22 Sep 2007 14:32:17 GMT

Sunscreen/ sunblock is the most important part of any beauty routine. It's the only guaranteed preventer of wrinkles and premature aging, and it keeps you from looking like a lobster. Sunscreens absorbs the UV rays, while sunblocks deflect them. Sunblocks are physical, containing ingredients like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, and can be visible on the skin, but they block both UVA and UVB rays. Suncreens are chemically based, and aren't as good at absorbing UVA rays. In fact, only a few chemical sunscreens absorb UVA rays, like Parsol 1789/ avobenzone, and some absorb both, like octocrylene and Mexoryl. You want a sunscreen or sunblock that lists one of the ingredients mentioned here if you want UVA protection. UVA rays, or long-wave rays, cause melonomas and enhance the effects of UVB rays, or short-wave rays, which cause burning and other types of cancer. Most moisturizers that contain UV protection only block or absorb UVB rays.
By the way, SPF, or Sun Protection Factor, measures how many times a product prevents burning, and thus only applies to UVB rays. If one burns in 20 minutes and wears an SPF 15 (the minimum you should wear), then one will be protected from burning for 300 minutes (15x20).
Next time, some of my picks for good sun protection.

Urban Decay Liquid Liner

Wed, 19 Sep 2007 01:45:13 GMT

One of my fave liquid liners is Urban Decay- it has a great brush, and lots of colors are available, including Acid Rain (lime green), Gash (metallic burgandy), and Radium (metallic royal blue). There's a matte black and a silvery black. It spreads nicely and stays on, creating an outrageous look. This isn't for wallflowers- the brush leaves a thick line. But on the other hand, it's easier to draw a thick straight line with a eyeliner brush than a thin one.
If you're looking for a more sublte, skinny line, try a cream liner like the ones from Smashbox. They're easier to apply than liquids, can go on wet for a liquid style or dry for a smokey look, and you get to choose the brush. I recommend the #4 Precision Eye Liner Brush by Stila. It's a lush but thin brush that's just stiff enough.

Talulah Natural Skincare

Mon, 17 Sep 2007 20:57:51 GMT

So for the past few months I've been using a skincare line that I read about on the BPAL forums called Talulah. Based out of Portland, Oregon, this brand is all natural, fair-trade, and mostly organic. It's a holy grail brand for me- since I've started using their oily skin routine of the Geranium Sap Cleanser, Orange Blossom Toner (a spritz), the Oma Serum #1 in the morning and the amazing Primrose Serum in the evening, my skin has cleared up and the redness has diminshed. Today I was able to go out with only spot-concealing my face, rather than using foundation all over. I've combined this with the Gommage Micropurele Purete by Chanel as an exfoilator three times a week. I'm not the only one- or the only skin type- to benefit from Talulah; check out the reviews on bpal.org for more raves. And don't balk at the price- the products last for-ev-er.
One tip- I've found that on hot days when I'm going to be extra-oily, I reverse the order of the serums to use Primrose in the morning- it's a better mattifier.

Dame Anita Roddick, 1942-2007

Fri, 14 Sep 2007 02:54:18 GMT

Dame Anita Roddick, founder of my former employer The Body Shop, passed away on Monday. She founded the company in 1976 in Brighton, England, using her experience from travels to the third world and her mother's wisdom to create beauty products to support her family while her huband was out of the country. From the beginning, she was an advocate for fair trade and stopping cosmetic animal testing.
Since the company was bought out by L'Oreal, many of the original products have been eliminated- the Colourings makeup line, the Japanese washing grains exfoiliator, an amazing lavender line. But great products remain- their body butters are the best moisturizers out there, the Hemp hand cream softens so well, and the peppermint foot line is a favorite of mine. Now if they'd just bring back the Indian Gardenia...

Deals

Wed, 12 Sep 2007 22:52:13 GMT

Lots of deals going on right now at Neiman Marcus during their beauy event- free stuff for each brand and a tote of samples if you spend more thn $100 (which is easy to do at NM).
Also there's a deal at Lamer.com with the code LMEYE- you get a 5-day sample of the eye concentrate plus a sample of your choice, all with free shipping.
Drugstore.com is having a 70% off sale.
The Body Shop has a gift with a $55 purchase, and Chamomille Eye Makeup Remover is $8.
Finally, there's the anniversary sale at Belle Lucce, a great natural bath and body company. The deals are pretty good (and so are the products):

"With every order:

A chance to win our random drawing for the Ultimate Cupcake Prize Pack, valued at $325! (read on for details)
A special code (valid for any future order before 12.31.07) that will save you 25% during your holiday shopping
A glitter-embellished thank you card, an adorable cupcake refrigerator magnet and special gift packaging
A delicious, gourmet cupcake-shaped sugar cookie, custom designed and hand decorated for Bella Luccè
Party favors, including samples and coupons from some of our favorite women-owned indie companies

With orders $75+ the above plus:

Free Shipping via FedEx Ground (continental US only)
Your choice of free product…in the special comments box during checkout, type which product from your order you’d like to receive two of, and we’ll tuck an extra in your box at no charge! "

Hi, I'm back

Wed, 12 Sep 2007 22:35:58 GMT

So I'm trying this beauty blogging thing again after almost a year. Wish me luck.
Lately I'm getting into shampoos without sodium laureth sulfates (SLSs). It's the typical foaming agent in shampoos and shower gels and can be drying. Sugar-based agents can be used instead. They don't foam as much, but they work just as well, especially when you rinse and repeat. Most people don't like them because they're used to the massive amount of foam created by SLSs. By using Jonathan Product's Create Moisture shampoo and conditioner, the frizziness in my hair has decreased dramatically and my hair is softer and stronger. Unfortunately, it's $22 for 8.4oz, and the bottles aren't well designed, plus I go through the conditioner like there's no tomorrow. I'm going to switch to Pureology after these bottles are gone. Both are vegan, not tested on animals, and free of SLSs.

Makeup Palettes

Sun, 22 Oct 2006 04:08:36 GMT

I ventured out today to Nordstrom, where I got to see the new Smashbox line. It includes a great palette that has two brushes, eight eyeshadows, four lip glosses, and two highlighters. It has shades that work on everyone without being boring- the lip glosses have color, and the eyeshadows have a range, and dare to go dark. It's one of many this season. My favorite is the Too Faced Jewelry Box, because of its variety. If the quality equals that of regular Too Faced makeup, than it's a steal at $39.50 for 8 eyeshadows, 6 lip glosses, a blush, a bronzer, foundation powder, eyebrow powder, eyeliner cake (requires water to apply), and illuminator. It's smaller portions than usual, but do you really use up most of your products? The colors are bright and fairly universal, although I think it's always a mistake to include foundation in palettes because people differ so much.
Two boxes that include things you wouldn't expect are the Urban Decay Urban Arsenal and the Hard Candy Take Out Box. Both have the necessary blushes and eyeshadows, but they include items like mascara. In the case of Urban Decay, there's also the famed eyeshadow primer potion, which I highly recommend, and the Big Fatty lip plumper. For Hard Candy, there's an adorable mini eye pencil and lots of lip glosses.
I have to mention the Lorac Social Butterfly kit for two reasons: the beautiful packaging, and the pseudo-kabuki brush they fit in. It's so cute! Plus you get a sizable amount of Lip Polish in Pink Champagne, which looks like a pretty cool neutral color, in a container that you can remove. That's my main complaint about palettes- if I use a lip color in one, I have to lug the whole thing along in my bag. Okay, so that was three reasons.
Finally, there's a mega palette that isn't available yet. It was featured in Allure this month (p. 64). Sephora Collection (the makeup made by Sephora) is putting out a kit featuring 64 eyeshadows, 32 lip colors, six blushes, and two powders. For $40. I really wonder about the quality. In my experience, Sephora Collection isn't amazing (but not horrible either) to begin with. Put it in a $40 mega palette, and... They have to make a profit somehow. I'll post when it goes up on the Sephora website so you can see it in all its glory.

Eyeshadows and eye colors

Sat, 21 Oct 2006 02:11:03 GMT

What eyeshadows look good on what people? It's an eternal question of beauty. Not really, but it has definitely plagued me at work. It involves three things: skin tone (a complicated issue), hair color, and eye color. Now, I think there are a couple of universal shades, which I will address in this post. First is beige. Everyone should have a light beige eyeshadow with a little shimmer they use as a base. I highly recommend Kitten by Stila for this job. If it doesn't agree with you for some reason, Lorac has a good selection of beiges as well, including mattes if you insist. I think mattes only work for women with severe wrinkling around the eyes, because shimmer will draw attention to the wrinkles.
The other universal color is khaki. That dark olive green never hurt anyone. My fave is also by Stila, Golightly. It is khaki, with flecks of gold. It complements every eye and hair color and can't wash out or go against any skin tone (although it looks a little ashen on the web site, it looks better in person). It's best on brown and blues, and can work for a smokey eye in evening as well as casual wear. Chains by Urban Decay is also great if you like more gold than green. BTW, I love Urban Decay shadows. They have lots of color but can go on sheer or bold. And the range of shades is amazing.

Bath and Body Works Temptations Lip Gloss

Thu, 19 Oct 2006 01:55:09 GMT

I used to work for Bath and Body Works, and I'm not their biggest fan. But I like lip gloss and balm, and they have a good selection. Today I got a tube of the Wickedly Hot Chocolate gloss from their Temptations collection. It's awesome if you like glosses with a lot to scent. It really smells like chocolate. It leaves a beautiful, well, chocolate tint on the lips along with a lot of shine. It isn't available online yet, but you can get it in store for $6. If you don't like scent, then you can get the same effect from Nars Lip Lacquer in Cabiria, but that's a pot that you have to apply with a brush (which clutters up your bag) or your finger (which can be gross). Also it's $22.

SK-II Airbrush Foundation

Fri, 13 Oct 2006 16:34:17 GMT

So when I was in Tysons Corner with ksausville, we checked out a new foundation by SK-II. It's a Japanese company available in the States only through Saks that uses the byproducts of sake. The company got started because people noticed how smooth the hands of the sake makers were. Their new foundation is air-brush, meaning it disperses the foundation into small particles in the air. It means more even and fuller coverage with less makeup. Sometimes it's waterproof, but I don't know about this system. This particular device is battery powered, and features a small packet of your color match that can be replaced when it runs out. The initial cost for the device is $140, but that includes two packs that should last you three months. Replacement for the packs are cheaper. The foundation is only available in-store for now, but here's a pic from In Style magazine.
I found that the foundation covered well, and that it was really cool, as expected, but it took a very long time to dry. I talked to the sales associate for a while but when I walked away my hand was still wet. Because it takes so long to dry, I'd only recommend this system for special occasions when you have time to get ready,

Like love, exciting and new

Wed, 11 Oct 2006 16:36:42 GMT

I went to Tysons Corner with ksausville on Saturday and we got to sniff some amazing perfumes. Stella in Two is great. It's lighter than the rose-based first version, with peony as the driving scent this time and a little black pepper to spice things up. Creed is coming out with a scent exclusively for Neiman Marcus that's mega-expensive ($270!) but has both ginger and bergamot, so of course I'm in love. It's only available in store. Marc Jacobs' new scents are a mixed bag- Violet should be something I like, with peony and bergamot, but frankly it's a little soapy. Ivy is better if you like grassy scents. Anything by Jo Malone is phenomenal, but I really loved the Honeysuckle and Jasmine cologne. It's a rich ambery floral. I'm also in LOVE with Prada Tendre. Ohmigod. Just, go smell it. It's like they took the original Prada, a very velvety floral, and made it into a sparkling cider.

Lip Balm

Fri, 01 Sep 2006 22:48:52 GMT

So I'm also a balm addict. One of those people that's constantly reapplying balm to seemingly already moist lips.
Big shock, right?
So I know a good balm when I see it.
First, petroleum is usually a bad sign. Kiehl's Lip Balm SPF 15 is the only exception I've ever found to that rule. It only holds in moisture on the surface of the lips, doesn't add it, so it'll do little to heal your dry lips. The moment it wears off, you'll be back where you started. Other moisturizers, like plant butters and oils, are absorbed by the skin so the moisture stays over time.
Second, SPF doesn't matter. Like foundation, it's a good thing but it comes off so quickly if might as well not be there at all.
Third, the scent can't be overwhelming. It is going right underneath your nose.
Finally, it doesn't matter what the packaging says, they pretty much all taste the same.
As for pot vs tube vs toothpaste-style tube, it's a personal preference.
Look at these sites for great options:
- Kissfix, the best variety of fun, exotic, and unique balms out their; check out the shop by flavor (scent, really) for a trip
- My Lip Stuff, a huge selection of options for scents and packaging.
- Spazzstick, a caffeinated lip balm made in by trolls in an underground cave. The FAQ rocks.
- Eco Lips, a site that not only sells organic balm but will give you a free balm if you send in five empty balm containers for recycling.

Finally, if you think I'm obsessed, check out this girl's blog: Chapstatic

Pretty pretty eyeshadow

Wed, 30 Aug 2006 21:07:12 GMT

So when you're putting on eyeshadow, sometimes you need a base color all over the lid. I love Stila Kitten. It's shimmery so it brightens up the eye, and is a classic nude. It works well with browns and when you just want a bit of something next to a brighter color.
Speaking of brighter colors, I love purples because you can make a whole look out of one color- sweep it across the lid and go. This works especially well for lilacs like Stila Key and slightly shimmery plums like Urban Decay Crash. The plums also look great blended onto the outer lid with a nude shimmer in the inner corner.
If you want to look subltely sexy, try a creme-to-powder shadow like the ones by Skin Alison Raffaele. Light Shadow comes in shades reminicent of the horizon during different times of the day. You apply it by starting at the lash line and sweeping up. It's a really complete but sheer look.
Finally, I am going bonkers over the new TheBalm ShadyLady Eyeshadow. The colors are just phenomenal! I haven't gotten the chance to try this out in person yet, so the texture remains to be seen, but take a look. Caught in the Act Courtney would highlight the outer crease of a Caucasian woman or cover the outer lid of an African-American women perfectly. Luscious Lani is another "all-over" color, while Jealous Jordana is just pure eye candy. I could totally line my eyes with that one, or do a smoky eye. If you want to buy me any, please, don't hesitate. ;)

Tips and tricks

Tue, 29 Aug 2006 04:17:35 GMT

Just a few things I do that make my life easier
1) I have long, thick hair. Regardless of whether or not I'm going to blow dry (which I rarely do, because it makes my hair type poofy), I wrap it as soon as I get out of the shower in a Body Shop Ultra-Absorbant Hair Towel. My hair dries so much quicker than if I wrap it in a regular towel, and it's a lot lighter than the regular towel too.
2) Baby wipes are a girls best friend. Don't get the Wet Ones they sell next to the paper towels- those have alcohol. You can use these to take off your makeup before washing your face and to clean your brushes in between shampooings (yes, you have to shampoo them). I recommend Seventh Generation Unscented Baby Wipes. Unlike most brands, they aren't tested on animals, and they're whitened without chlorine bleach, which can dry your skin.
3) Mark on the calender when you buy your mascara. After three months of exposure to air and pumping of the wand, it grows too much bacteria and you risk an eye infection.
4) Extend the reach of your eyeshadow collection with Too Faced Liquif-Eye, a liquid that makes eyeshadows into waterproof liquid liners.
5) Put a little white shimmery shadow in the inner corner of the eye to negate dark circles and open up the face. If you have severe dark circles, Benefit actually created a product that does the same thing, but with less shimmer and more concealment, called Eye Bright.
6) Not sure about that "natural" or "home" beauty remedy your "friend" told you about? Ask these guys: The Beauty Brains. They are two professional cosmetic chemists with over thirty years experience between them. For example, check out this post explain why those asprin masks don't work.

Calcium and Clarins Water Purify One-Step Cleanser

Mon, 28 Aug 2006 01:50:18 GMT

Recently, I read in New Beauty Magazine about a theory that acne can be caused or worsened by an excess of calcium in water used for washing. Dr. Dennis Gross explains that the calcium combines with sebum to create "a waxy substance that causes blackheads and whiteheads that trap bacteria and cause blemishes." Having tried everything short of Accutane to get rid of my acne, I figured I'd cut down on the amount of calcium coming into contact with my skin to see if it helped.
First, I started using Clarins Water Purify One-Step Cleanser on my face. It's easily mistakable for a toner, but the mint essential water takes off oils and makeup as well as any other cleanser. I've been using it for a couple of weeks now, and have noticed an improvement, especially in my cheeks.
I also got an Aquasana shower filter to take the calcium and other nasty things out of my shower water. Chlorine is especially targeted by this filter, as it not only dries out skin and hair, but gets into the air and breathed in. So far my hair is softer, but I haven't noticed too big of a difference in my skin yet. If it will do anything remainds to be seen.
Finally, I bought MD Skincare Hydrapure Oil-free Moisture, which has chelators, molecules that attract and bond to stray metal ions (at least that's how I understand it). I've only been using this for a couple of nights (still using La Mer The Oil Absorbing Lotion during the day), so stay tuned.
The jury's still out on whether or not all of these changes will make any signficant difference in my skin, but I'm optimistic. At least not you know why I'm broke this month.

Murad Renewing Eye Cream

Fri, 25 Aug 2006 21:30:23 GMT

I recently got a sample of Murad Renewing Eye Cream, which is part of their Hormonal Aging line. I figured I'd give it a try even though I'm in my 20s, because eye cream is eye cream, right? Wrong. It's nice and thick, but it sat on top of my skin, creating a greasy finish for almost an hour before it finally sank in. It's probably still a good cream for menopausal and post-menopausal women though, because their hormone changes thin the skin.
As women enter menopause the amount of estrogen in the body decreases signifcantly. There are estrogen receptors in the skin, and when these receptors are "turned on" they increase the activity of skin fibroblasts, the cells that produce collagen, skin's connective tissue that holds in moisture. A decrease in estrogen leads to a decrease in collagen, meaning deeper wrinkles and less luster. For more info, click here.
Murad's Hormonal Aging line addresses the problem on three levels: estrogen, collagen, and moisture. In the case of the eye cream, it contains wild yam, evening primrose, and soybean, natural estrogen replacements; palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 to encourage collagen production; and jojoba, glycerin, and mango seed butter to add moisture. In addition, it has light deflectors and brightening ingredients to reduce dark circles.
I'm not going to use it again because it's not for me, but if you know someone who is having skin issues post-menopause, it's got the makings of a good line.

Eyeshadow primer

Fri, 25 Aug 2006 04:37:23 GMT

When I worked at Sephora, we had shipping issues with Urban Decay that left us with too much of some product and not enough of others. One product we never had enough of was the Primer Potion, an eyemakeup primer. We'd get in about six to eight at a time, every month or so, and within three days they'd be gone, mostly because employees bought them. Why was this item so popular? It is like super glue for eyeshadow and eyeliner- no matter how greasy your skin is or how much shadow you pile on, it holds your designs in place all day without creasing. It's a milky fluid swiped onto the lid with a wand so it's easy to apply and doesn't change the makeup's color. Thanks to a silicone base, the primer spreads evenly and grabs particles- like eyeshadow- well. Talc prevents the silicone from slipping and sliding on the skin surface. One tip- the wand doesn't go close to the bottom, so when you think it's empty, crack the container open on a hard surface, scoop the remaining product into a jar, and you'll have lots more. I thank one of my former collegues at Sephora for that idea.
Try out the Primer Potion with Urban Decay's wide and excellent selection of shadows. For natural and sheer looks, try their original line of subway token shadows. When I say natural, don't expect to walk out of the house looking like you've got nothing on- lots of their shades have glitter or some sparkle. For more intense- and fun!- looks, or to accent in the crease or around the eye, try the Deluxe Eyeshadows. These are matte and highly pigmented, with beautiful artwork on the lid of the container. I have a ton of both types of shadows, and they are of amazing quality, easy to brush on and layer, and the variety means everyone can find the perfect match. Finally, try out some new eyeliner colors with the line of 24/7 Glide On Eye Pencils, which are waterproof and come in a great range of shades.

It's only rock and roll but I like it

Thu, 24 Aug 2006 07:52:38 GMT

So before I left Bath and Body Works I picked up some awesome nail polish from the Lippman Collection. It's called Hit Me With Your Best Shot, and was designed by Pat Benatar. It looks black in the bottle, but it's really a shiny dark pewter. Lippman Collection has amazing staying power, which is great because chips are clearer than the full moon on a cloudless night with this color. I love it because it's clearly a rock chick color, but it has a dark sophication to it. It's also unique- I've never seen a silver this dark before.
At $15 bucks a pop, you should really give yourself a mini manicure and pedicure before putting this stuff on.

Start in the shower, smoothing out the worst rough edges on your feet with a pumice stone, and then polish with a scrub like The Body Shop Pumice Foot Scrub. If you need it, use a gentle scrub on your hands, like True Blue Spa Just A Minute! 60-Second Manicure Scrub. The sugar melts away so it won't tear at the soft skin on your hands, and the scent has a wonderful citrus kick.
Once you've gotten out of the shower and dried off, apply lotion. I recommend The Body Shop Hemp Hand Protector, which is intensely moisturizing, and True Blue Spa I Love Shea Foot Cream, which has 20% shea butter but isn't greasy.
I recommend Tweezerman tools for your nails. Push back your cuticles and trim hangnails and dead skin only. Don't try to completely remove them because it'll leave you open to infection (and looking ratty).
File nails into an oval shape that mirrors the cuticle bed on the hand, and just trim the nails back on the toes- filing them down can leave you open to ingrowns.
Buff if you choose to, but don't overdo it, because polish doesn't stick well to a completely smooth surface.
Swipe each finger with remover before applying polish to rid of dirt and lotion residue, which can impede polish.
Apply a base coat to help the polish stay on and prevent stains. I like Seche Clear Crystal Clear Base Coat. Allow to completely dry.
Apply one coat, allow to completely dry, and repeat.
Finish with a top coat, and you should not use any other (I am serious) except Seche Vite Dry Fast Top Coat. It dries almost instantly, and bonds the other layers together. It also protects against chipping. Amazing.
Finish by moisturizing your cuticles with essie The Cuticle Pen. It uses apricot oil, soaks in quickly, and doesn't get all over thanks to it's built-in brush.
Add a layer of top coat each day until you want to remove, and then use something basic and cheap, like Polish Off 100% Pure Acetone Nail Polish Remover. It dries your cuticles, but it works in a jiffy. Just moisturize after.

On a final note, my friend lexiroving is now a Body Shop at Home consultant. A wonderful idea if you are going to be living in Idaho like she will be soon, where the Body Shops are few and far between. As a former employee, I welcome her to the Body Shop family and urge you all to contact her for all your Body Shop needs. To see the products, go to The Body Shop, and to buy, email BriardLaw3@yahoo.com.

Foundation Options

Tue, 22 Aug 2006 00:45:10 GMT

So here are some picks for my favorite foundations and tinted moisturizers. I've tried the oil-free ones, and have been impressed by the color ranges, textures, and durability of the others. Only use the full coverage if the other options have failed you.

Oil-Free Liquid Foundations
1) Tinted moisturizer- MAC Select Tint SPF 15, $24: Adding just a hint of color and a lot of moisture, this product goes on smooth. It evens out facial tones without adding a heavy makeup look, and stays well. Like all MAC foundations, it comes in a wide range of color options.
2) Light coverage- Prescriptives Flawless Skin Foundation SPF 15, $39.50: An award-winning, best-selling foundation boasting light-deflectors and long wear. A whopping 30 shades, so there's a match for everyone.
3) Medium coverage- Clinique Superbalanced Makeup, $19.50: Pretty smart stuff. Moisturizes while absorbing oil- which is great because I know from experience that you can have dry skin under all that sebum. A million shade to choose from.
4) Full coverage- Laura Mercier Silk Creme Foundation, $40: Not enough shades, but a beautiful finish that covers completely. Contains light reflectors to help hide flaws. Fragrance-free as well, so worth a try for sensitive types.

Oil-Free Non-Liquid Foundations
1) Pressed powder- Clinique Perfectly Real Compact Makeup, $22.50: Light, portable coverage that mattifies and evens. Huge array of skin tones.
2) Wet-dry powder- Lorac Oil-Free Wet/Dry Powder Foundation, $35: Beautiful light coverage when dry, medium coverage when wet, silky finish to both. Staying power a bit better when wet. Formulated to not irritate sensitive skin. I have heard complaints about the packaging breaking, though, so be gentle, but the product is worth it.
3) Cream- Vincent Longo Water Canvas Creme-to-Powder Foundation, $52.50: Expensive, but so worth it for the hydration (it's 50% H2O) and jelly-like texture when in the package. Waterproof once it dries, it blends beautifully with your skin for light-to-medium coverage. It can be layered for heavier coverage, however.
4) I have never seen an oil-free stick foundation

Liquid Foundations with Oil
1) Tinted moisturizer- Stila Sheer Color Tinted Moisturizer SPF 15, $28: Sheer color in lots of shades packing a lot of moisture. I like tinted moisturizers to be all-in-one packages- color, moisture, and SPF. This one delivers.
2) Light coverage- Stila Luminizing Liquid Foundation, $35: An excellent choice for maturing skin that's lost it's luster. Adds luminenscese while preventing all-out shine.
3) Medium coverage- DiorSkin Liquid SPF 12, $40: A very emollient, blendable product that moisturizes with limnanthes alba (meadowseed) oil and has light reflectors. Features a very natural, semi-matte finish.
4) Full coverage- Clarins True Comfort Foundation SPF 15, $36: A thick, velvety liquid that covers all flaws, moisturizes with antioxidants, and deflects light with gold and apricot pigments. Another good choice for mature skin, if you don't have many deep wrinkles for the foundation to settle into.

Non-Liquid Foundations with Oil
1) Pressed powder- MAC Studio Fix Powder Plus Foundation, $24: A talc-based powder (not suitable for sensitive types) that gives light-to-medium coverage with a velvety, oil-absorbing finish.
2) Wet-dry powder- Prescriptives AnyWear Multi-finish Compact Foundation SPF 12, $32.50: This fine powder can be applied wet for a sheer finish or dry for fuller coverage. Finish is semi-matte, and durability is excellent, with many shades from which to choose.
3) Cream- Lancome Magique Matte, $37: An airy mousse that's highly moisturizing with medium coverage. Micropowders guarantee a matte, powdery finish.
4) Stick- Bobbi Brown Foundation Stick, $36: A versatile tool for all but oily skin types, this can give you sheer to full coverage depending on how you spread and layer it. Also handy as a concealer. Great range of color availability, especially in the darker tones.

Mineral Foundation
By mineral foundation, I mean makeup based on crushed minerals like mica and physical sunscreens like titanium dioxide. It is very good for all skin types, but especially sensitive, oily, and post-surgery skin due to the small number and nature of the ingredients- no talc, oils, parabens, artifical dyes, or fragrances. One such foundation, Bare Escentuals i.d. bareMinerals Foundation SPF 15 is very popular for a good reason (and it's not the infomericals)- it's good stuff. It lightly covers redness and flaws without settling into lines, giving an airbrushed look. Well, it is on lighter skin tones, where it blends in; on darker ones it tends to look chalky. Also, it is only available in loose powder, which makes application messy and touch-ups near impossible. An alternative that I love is Jane Iredale, another mineral-based cosmetic line with loose powder, pressed powder, and liquid foundations in a wide range of colors. These shades look wonderful on all their respective skin tones, not just the pale ones, allowing all people to enjoy the benefits of mineral makeup.

I reconsidered something I said in my last post, about not buying foundation online. I realized that I am blessed with a geographical region full of diverse makeup brands, a car, and a willingness to drive a long way when necessary. Even so, I would be stuck if I ever wanted to buy foundation or concealer from La Bella Donna or Paul and Joe, to name a few. I'd have to buy online. And I know that a lot of people out there don't have the freedom or access that I do. So I figure that if you have to buy online, here are a couple common sense tips:
1) Check your monitor. If it's old, or doesn't show color well, go to the library or a friend's house in search of a better one to make the match then come home to order.
2) Do research before. Read reviews and ask around at Makeup Alley, read magazines, and ask friends.
3) Guess your shade, buy that and also buy the one lighter and the one darker (unless it's a set, like Bare Escentuals sometimes makes). You can try them at home and send back the ones that don't work. Be sure to read the site's return policy before you order.
4) Only buy from major, security-certified cites. If you're not sure, read site reviews at shopping.com.

Choosing foundation

Sat, 19 Aug 2006 05:25:05 GMT

Ah, foundation. It can create the perfect canvas for your face, but use one that's even slightly off and you look worse than before you started. And it's not hard to use the wrong one, with so many choices out there. Here are a few hints on how to find- and wear- the right one.

1) Exfoliate and moisturize: Makeup sets differently on dry and dead skin than it does on healthy skin; you'll end up drawing attention to your flaws if you don't keep up with your skincare routine.

2) Try a primer: Despite the Home Depot-style name, these smoothing products are quite useful. They fill in pores and fine lines, and help hold the foundation on better than bare skin. Choose one based on your skin type:
-if you're oily, choose an oil-free mattifer
-if you're dry, choose one with moistuizing oils
-if you're prone to redness, choose a green tinted one to balance out the colors

3) Know your type(s): When I worked at Sephora, we had to ask several questions of people who wanted foundation, mostly about their skin. Pay attention to it, and notice several things:
-if you tend to be oily all over, you probably want oil-free foundation
-if you tend to break out easily, you probably want oil-free
-if you tend to be dry all over, you probably want oil-based foundation
-if you tend to be oily in your t-zone (nose and forehead) but dry elsewhere, think of it as a range- does your skin lean more towards the oily, or more towards the dry. Pick a foundation based on which way your skin goes the most.
-if you are, in addition to these above states, sensitive, you might consider mineral-based makeup, which has very few ingredients for you to react to. If it doesn't work for you, pay attention to ingredients- many people react to mineral oil and talc. Also don't buy anything with any ingredients dervived from foods you are allergic to.

4) Different coverages: Go for the minimal coverage possible. You may think that your face is horribly disfigured, but in reality it looks phenomenal. Try a tinted moisturizer if you have little redness and blemishes. Moderate blemishes, redness, and wrinkles should go for light to medium coverage. Severe acne, rosacea, and birthmarks should attempt to cover with concealer and medium coverage before trying full coverage. I'm really not a fan of full coverage- it's too mask-like. If you have deep wrinkles, don't try to slather on heavy coverage to conceal them- the foundation will settle in the lines and actually accentuate them. Only try to hide fine lines with light coverage.

5) Powder vs liquid: This is really a personal preference. Powders tend to give less coverage, but are quicker to apply (and pressed powders are less messy and more portable). Liquids tend to last longer, thus requiring fewer touch ups, and blend better with concealers. Semi-solids that come in compacts do have good coverage, but have horrible staying power and can melt in your purse on hot days.

6) Here comes the sun: Sunscreen is a nice feature in foundation, but it's not a requirement. Really, you spread the stuff so thin and it comes off so quickly, it's not very effective. You're better off with your SPF in your moisturizer, or, ideally, in a separate sunscreen altogether.

7) Try before you buy: When buying, go to a location that allows you to get a color match. It's the main reason I don't like buying makeup at drugstores- I'm not going to go through the hassle of buying and returning something, sometimes a few times, just to find my shade. And as much as I love shopping online, I never buy certain things on the net- jeans, bras, and foundation- because you just need to try them on.

8) Hit the spot: Go to the store without makeup buy with everything else you wear under foundation- moisturizer, sunscreen, primer- and color match along your jaw. That way you can see how it matches your face and your neck. Pay attention to texture and how the foundation spreads as it goes on- you don't want to have to spend forever applying this stuff.

9) Have the right tools: Don't apply liquid foundation with you're fingers (even though I'm guilty of this one sometimes). It'll only spread bacteria on your face while not getting the foundation on evenly. Sponges work well, but they soak up a lot of product. Always use a new sponge for each application. Brushes also work well, but you have to wash them (although baby wipes are a good stopgap if you use them every day). Look for a brush that doesn't shed easily, is tightly-packed and thick, and, in this case, synthetic. It's up to you what to use.

10) Finish strong: Put on concealer after foundation- putting it on before makes the foundation wipe it out of place. Pat on with your (clean!) ring finger and blend with a concealer brush (unless you're using mineral makeup, then follow those methods). You want to match your concealer to your jawline, not your foundation. After adding color, brush your entire face with loose powder to set. You want a finely milled, translucent powder that is invisible once on your face, but soaks up oil and keeps your makeup in place throughout the day.

11) Don't be afraid to return: If you aren't happy with you're choice- it makes you break out, it doesn't wear well, the shade isn't what you thought it was, whatever- return it.

I am currently using Peter Thomas Roth Ultra-lite Oil-free Sunblock SPF 30, Laura Mercier Foundation Primer, Lancome Teint Idole Ultra in Ivoire 1 applied with a Sonia Kashuk for Target foundation brush, Skin Alison Raffaele True Concealer in Skintone 1 on blemishes, and Laura Mercier Secret Concealer #1 under my eyes.
If anyone has any questions, comment or email!

Smashbox Spectrum Lip Gloss in Radiant

Thu, 17 Aug 2006 21:36:32 GMT

I saw this gloss in the new Sephora catalog and I just had to have it. The Radiant shade is a natural, deep pink, with light reflectors. The overall look is very plump and juicy, without glittery sparkles. My lips look like they're in a makeup ad! The texture is a little sticky, but it goes on quite smoothly and stays okay. I especially like the brush applicator. The gloss cost $18 and is apparently limited addition.
In my Sephora order I also got a new night moisturizer and samples of moisturizer, eye cream, and shampoo. Plus I just started using a new Paul Mitchell shampoo and conditioner. Stay tuned for lots of reviews!

Prescriptives Lash Envy Mascara

Wed, 16 Aug 2006 09:40:48 GMT

I tried the new Prescriptives mascara, Lash Envy in black yesterday. It cost $19, is available in brown as well, and is not waterproof. It is touted as extremely voluminizing and long wearing, thanks to special polymers.
I bought this mascara, like a fool, because of the ad. Look at those lashes! I love full lashes- volume matters much more to me than length or curl. Also I'd heard good reviews of other Prescriptives mascaras, so I figured why not.
I curled my lashes with my Shu Uemura eyelash curler, and applied two coats. I wasn't happy with the fullness of that look, so I applied I third. I finished the look with concealer and lip stain.
Even after three coats, I didn't get the dramatic volume promised. Instead I got more of a soft, natural look punched up a couple of notches. The color was good- a strong black that stood out well. Although length isn't the top priority for me, the lengthening on this is so poor it really disappointed me. I must say though, it has staying power. I forgot to remove it before I went to bed- I use waterless cleansers, and forgot I had eye makeup on- and it stayed on all night barely smudging.
I'm also bothered by their explaination of how the mascara works. Are the polymers in the wax or the powder of the mascara? I know it matters little in the long run, but I like understanding the mechanics of things.
Overall, I recommend this if you need an all-day non-waterproof mascara for a natural look. If you're looking for something more volumizing or lengthening, look elsewhere.

Desert Island Picks

Tue, 15 Aug 2006 04:29:24 GMT

So out of the mountains of skincare and makeup you have, what can you absolutely, positively not live without? Here are my products:
1)Skin Alyson Raffaele True Concealer in Skintone 1: This multipurpose piece works wonderfully both on blemishes and under the eyes thanks to its thick but emollient texture. It's long lasting and mineral-oil free.
2)Kiehl's Lip Balm SPF 15 in 58B: Sinks in better than any other balm I've ever tried (and I've tried a lot) and the moisture sticks around. Lots of sun protection and just the right hint of color.
3)The Body Shop Strawberry Body Butter: Moisturizes without clogging my pores using natural ingredients. Has a great scent going on that fades quickly enough for me to wear perfume.
4)La Mer The Oil Absorbing Lotion: Expensive, yes. But so worth it. It keeps my face matte better than anything else I've tried. Plus it's chock full of antioxidents and nutrients thanks to it's "miracle broth."
5)Shu Uemura Eyelash Curler: The Rolls Royce of makeup tools. Shaped to curl every lash without catching any. The handles are bent at the perfect angle to fit the shape of your face.
6)Peter Thomas Roth Ultra-Lite Oil-Free Sunblock SPF 30: With broad-spectrum UVA and UVB protection that keep me healthy, but without heavy oils that congest my skin.
7)Kiss My Face Moisture Shave Cream, Fragrance Free: A light, moisturizing lotion that lathers a little in the shower and helps guarantee a close shave without overwhelming my razor.
8)SweetSpot Labs Gentle Feminine Wash, Unscented: A soap-free cleanser for a sensitive area. Wonderful for women- like myself- who are easily irritated. Also has chamomille and aloe vera to soothe.

I just ordered a bunch of new stuff, including a shower water filter. Stay tuned for reviews on that and more, and on my never-ending quest for a great conditioner, foundation, and mascara.